Common Tortoise Ailments

 

Runny Nose

   The most likely health issue you will have with your tortoise is Runny Nose Syndrome, which is down to a respiratory infection. It can happen at any time of the year and to any species of tortoise. It can also be passed onto other tortoises and spread rapidly. Unfortunately it can develop into pneumonia if not treated.

   As the name suggests, you will see thin mucus running down from the nostrils (just like us having a runny nose) and it is usually a clear colour, the tortoise may also blow bubbles from its nostrils as it breathes.

   They will sit huddled up looking very sorry for themselves. If you are aware of an environmental cause and you can remedy it, then a normally healthy tortoise can usually fight off the infection, with its own immune system, over time.

   However, a visit to the vet is recommended, to be sure that there is nothing else causing it.

 

   Causes: humidity being too high or too low, or a dusty environment, malnutrition, stress and over crowding. Straw and hay pieces, or other foreign objects, in the nose, can aggravate it.

 

   Treatment is antibiotics.

 

   You should separate your animal into an isolation area and increase infection control preventative measures between your groups. If you have more than one animal affected then it is likely that the whole group has got it and separation can cause more stress than good. Not every animal will show symptoms, sometimes they can just be carriers. In this situation you may need to be prepared to treat the whole group. Again you need to practice good infection control, remove any unnecessary items from their environment which could house infection and disinfect thoroughly. Go back to basics and use newspaper as floor substrate and bedding, instead of straw and soil, to reduce anything getting into the nasal cavity and aggravating it further.

 

   Infections like this, are one of the main reasons you should keep your tortoise species separate

 

   If the mucus is thicker (more like a snotty nose), is white, yellowish, or greyish or the tortoise is struggling to breathe easily, then veterinary investigation should be carried out, sooner rather than later, for the cause of the infection, as it is more serious.

 

   A good weed diet will help to keep the immune system in good condition, to minimise infections.

 

   If you are feeling ill yourself, with a cold or similar, try to limit the amount of interaction you have with your tortoise and conduct infection control measures before and after entering the tortoises environment. Wear a face mask if possible, until you are better.

  

Stomatitis

   This is commonly known as mouth rot. The tortoise will be off its food and could be drooling and may keep its mouth open. Regular oral checks can help spot signs of a problem early. With tortoises the earlier you treat an issue the greater the chance of it being a successful outcome.

   In the later stages, a white substance will form around the mouth, signifying that it is infected and the skin will be sore looking underneath it.

 

   Initial treatment: if caught early, would be a diluted povidon-iodine solution but if it is more severe then it will require veterinary drugs.

 

   Unfortunately the prognosis is not good because the animal cannot eat properly and this causes more problems, besides the virus. Tube feeding may be required.

 

 

Constipation

   This is usually caused by a poor diet and lack of water, making the animal dehydrated.

 

   Treatment, an increase of fibre intake is recommended, you can add dandelion weed to their feed too.

   A small dose of laxative such as liquid paraffin or lactose may help as well, but Don’t expect instant results, it will take a while to work into their system, so don’t repeatedly give laxative or you will end up with a tortoise that has diarrhoea, which causes problems of its own.

   Instead, soak the tortoise in a warm but not hot bath, for half an hour, several times a day, if there is no improvement after a couple of days the tortoise will need veterinary assistance.

 

Do not try poking something into the tail, in the hope of dislodging a blockage, that can cause more harm than good.

 

Diarrhoea

   Diarrhoea is never good for anyone, tortoises included, it can also quickly lead to dehydration and if this is severe it can require then to be placed on a drip. The swift loss of their gut bacteria can also set back their ability to digest and process food properly.

 

   Most common causes of diarrhoea are too much fruit in the tortoises diet but it can also be a symptom that the animal is infected with worms, which you will be able to see in their poo and this will require medical treatment.

   If the poo smells bad or different to normal then the animal should also see the vet. Try to take a same with you, in a clean container, so that the vet can run tests and identify the cause.

 

   Alfalfa in the tortoises feed will help combat diarrhoea but it should not be an every day part of their diet because it is high in protein which can cause its own set of problems for the animal, particularly in relation to their shell development.

 

   Give them some of their favourite foods to get them eating again but not fruits. Try to get them eating natural weeds such as dandelions or plantains. Hay or dried grass is also good as it helps soak up the diarrhoea inside them, so that is gets back to a more normal consistency

 

   As previously mentioned they can easily get dehydrated, so give them warm baths. Not only will it help them feel better and flush their systems out, when they drink, and replenish their lost water but it will also help keep them clean and prevent any skin infections developing. It will also prevent flies being drawn to them and stop them getting fly strike.

   You may not actually see them drink in the bath but they will be absorbing water.

 

   Keep them warm, and clean, and allow their bodies a chance to recover naturally, with rest and peace.

 

   Make sure you keep their environment clean and a regularly change bedding. Make sure you use personal protection equipment, for yourself, such as plastic gloves, and aprons, and dispose of it properly after use. Tortoises carry Zoonotic infections, such as Salmonella, which can be passed on to humans through their faeces.

 

   It may be easier to put them in a separate isolation box so that your other tortoises don’t come into contact with it and if you just use newspaper bedding it is easier to keep clean. Monitor your other tortoises for any symptoms they may have a similar infection. Practice good infection control between your different species.

 

Vomiting

   This very rare but it is serious. It is difficult for the animal to physically do and has great risks of the vomit seeping back down into their lungs. Vet advice should be a priority. If possible take a sample of the vomit with you, in a separate, clean container, so that your vet can run tests to help find out the cause.

 

   Again, practice good infection control between your different species and animals.

 

Assesses, Cuts And Grazes

   Abscesses are common, and these will need antibiotic treatment from a vet, you may be given oral ones or a topical cream, to administer, instead of it having to have injections, depending on the location and seriousness of the abscess.

 

   Tortoises will get many scrapes, cuts and grazes as the clamber over rough terrain, in their pen. Most of the time they are able to prevent it developing into an infection thanks to their own immune system.

   Just like with a human, keep the injured area clean, and wipe over with a weak saline solution ( A little salt dissolved in boiled water that has been allowed to cool), or a little Dettol in warm water if it is in an area where the animal wont ingest it. Alternatively if you want to set up a designated first aid kit for your tortoise the F10 range of products is a good place to start.

 

   Try to resist the urge to smother the animal in bandages, for several reasons- they can impede the tortoises movement or catch on its surroundings causing other potential issues. It is also better to let the wound have access to air so that it will scab over quicker.

 

   If the injury is serious enough that you think it needs a bandage, then you need to separate the animal into a clean box with no substrate in it, to get into the wound and cause infection. Go back to basics and just have newspaper covering the floor, so it is easer to keep clean, and no obstacles for it to climb over to aggravate the injury.

Make sure the tortoise has heat, water and food, maybe treats too and let it get on with healing. Don’t over fuss it or you will cause it stress which will be detrimental to its recovery.

 

   Use clean paper towel pieces to gently blot the wound, to soak up blood, until it begins to clot, it should only take a few minutes. If it does not stop actively bleeding after ten minutes then you should seek veterinary advice.

   Once the bleeding has stopped, gently wipe the wound with a paper towel and some disinfectant such as diluted Dettol to remove the worst of the blood, but be careful as you don’t want it to start bleeding again. Once it is comfortable and cleaned up leave it to rest and recuperate at its own pace.

   Allow it to remain in a box, on its own, until it has begun to heal properly, so that contact with obstacles or other tortoises does not aggravate the wound and cause further damage.

 

   Ascertain how the damage happened and take measures to prevent it from happening again.

 

   Because of the type of skin tortoises have, traditional stitches are rarely applied, if the wound is bad enough that you think it will need stitches then you definitely need to take it to the vets.

 

   Tortoises, like other animals, can be affected by fly strike, so you must keep the environment and wound fly free whilst they recover.

 

If you are in any doubt about your animal, or your ability to help it, seek proper veterinary advice before it gets worse.

 

Dehydration

   A dehydrated tortoise will be quiet, most likely tucked up in its shell. The skin will feel more loose than normal. Gently pinch a piece of skin in their neck cavity, if it does not react the same way as when you pinch your own hand i.e if the skin stays in the pinched position then your tortoise is dehydrated.

   Place it in a warm bath for several minutes a couple of times per day to allow it to drink and rehydrate naturally. If it has not improved after a few days then you need to take it to a vet, where it may need to have a temporary drip fitted.

   Not all tortoises produce liquid urine. Those that come from desert areas produce a white substance called urates. Sometimes these urates can be a liquid form and look like milk but the more dehydrated the animal is the thicker this white substance will become.

   In times when water is more scarce the tortoise with use its hind gut system and reabsorb water in urine to help it remain hydrated. They will do this until no more fluid is available. At that point the urates will look like cottage cheese or crumbled dry chalk and it will be much more difficult for them to pass. They urgently need rehydrating, so get them soaking in water.

  

Brumation and Estiva

   Although not an ailment, it is something that you could feel concern about if your tortoise does it unexpectedly.

 

Brumation

   This is something that tortoises (and other reptile species) do when it is too cold and dull, for the species who do not go into proper hibernation, to be moving around outside. It usually happens over winter, when there are prolonged periods of low temperatures, and dull days.

   The larger species who do not burrow underground to hibernate will find somewhere sheltered to snuggle up and tuck themselves in, whilst they are vulnerable, so they are protected and go into a trance like state to conserve energy. Or they may just be happy to remain under their heat lamps. It is a bit like us looking out the window on a cold, drizzly, winter day and deciding you will spend your time off having a duvet day, rather than battling to go to the supermarket in the horrible weather.

   They wont bother to waste energy foraging for food on a daily basis but on brighter days may still get up to eat and drink and relocate before going back into this stasis. It makes them slow to respond to stimulation, such as prodding and poking, and you may initially think they have died. However, this is a survival strategy that species have developed over thousands of years to lower their breathing and heart beat to minimal levels to conserve energy. It is normal but they will not always do it every year. The weather around them is an important factor. You can help combat this by upping their levels of UV exposure. Leave their lights on longer than just daylight hours to try and replicate a summer day length.

 

   They will not always sit with head and limbs tucked in. Sometimes, if the are feeling hot, like whilst sleeping under heat lamps, they will have head and limbs fully extended, signalling that they are content. Sometimes this can be at unnatural angles and they can look dead but they are still very much alive.

   Make sure they have sufficient access to water to prevent kidney problems, from lack of drinking regularly. Also make sure you are offering them aired temperature water and not cold straight from an outside tap, on a winter day, or it will upset their internal core temperature and could cause them to go into shock.

 

Estiva/ Aestivation

   Is when the tortoises become dormant and go into a light trance like state to conserve energy, when it is too hot to move, particularly in dry conditions. This is the summer version of winters Brumation. It is like us living, or holidaying, in a hot country and having a siesta at mid day, so that you stay out of the sun during the hottest part of the day but move around early morning or early evening instead.

   The African tortoise species, like the Sulcata are particularly prone to doing this. They will live off their fat reserves until it cools sufficiently for them to go out foraging again, it can last days and weeks in extreme cases. They will usually awaken more easily than when they are in Brumation, and once it either rains or the temperatures lower they will go out and feast.

   Make sure they have sufficient access to water, both to drink and bath in, to avoid them developing kidney problems, and enable them too cool down as they desire. Estiva can affect any size and species of tortoises. Make sure there is plenty of shade in their environment and that they have access to cool spots as well as heat lamps if they live on a tortoise table. This is very important as tortoises need water and shade to thermoregulate.

 

 

Over Grown Beak And Nails

   Tortoise nails, especially on the females are naturally quite long, as they help them to dig out the nests contents. Make sure that they have rough substrate such as stone or a paving block somewhere that they pass over regularly, so that they will naturally wear down their nails to more comfortable levels.

   Sometimes nails can begin to grow at odd angles and then you need to step in to stop them from causing painful issues by digging into places they shouldn’t.

   You can trim the nails on the smaller breeds using a pair of dog grooming nail clippers, but you need to be very careful because they have blood vessels in their nails and can bleed profusely if you accidentally clip them off too much.

   As you look at the nail you will see a dark area, nearer to the skin, and then it gradually goes lighter as it gets nearer to the tip. This light area does not have blood vessels and you are safe to clip small amounts off it. Start by removing small increments, you can always go back and trim some more on another day. But if you take too much in one go you will cause the animal unnecessary pain.

   We would recommend that you first start by using a rough nail file to remove the tips and excess growth before diving in with the nail clippers. Clipping should be a last resort.

   With larger species you will require power tools, like a Dremmel hobby sander because dog clippers are not strong enough to cut through the thickness. Aldabra have all black nails so it is much more difficult to see where the blood vessels end, and they do go closer to the end of the toe, so it is much better to sand the overgrowth back rather than try to cut it. The best idea is to have rough substrate outside their house door, like a paving slabs, so they have to walk over it repeatedly to get in and out of the house and they will naturally wear down to the correct formation.

   Remember do not try to do too much at once, you can always try again another day. It will be like cutting your own finger and toe nails, if you take too much off it hurts and impacts your ability to move.

 

   It is worth investing in a silver nitrate pen, you can get them from your local vets or off the internet. This helps to stem the bleeding quickly if you do happen to nick a vessel accidentally.

However, we do not recommend you attempting nails corrective procedures unless you are feeling confident in your ability. If in doubt take it to an experienced exotics vet for treatment.

 

   If your tortoise develops an overgrown beak it can severely impact on its ability to eat. It is difficult to get the tortoise to open its mouth, and keep it open without getting accidentally bitten, so that you can trim the beak. Again, the first option should be to use a nail file to rub it back and then a Dremmel mini sander, if more power is needed. You can start by just using the sandpaper disks first, use of the machine itself is not always necessary. Use varying grades of sandpaper to rub the keratin down to a more useable level. Again, do not try to take too much off at once, it will be stressful for both you and the tortoise.

   Also it is wise to introduce tougher foods into their diet like carrots, and hay, cuttlefish or something which will naturally help keep the beak under control and wear it down as a natural process of eating. Cut down on the lettuce and cabbage type items and get them eating grasses and weeds as it will slow the growth of the beak and allow them to wear it down naturally without you having to intervene. It is always best to take a little off at a time and do it more regularly rather than trying to take huge amounts off in one go and risk damaging the animal.

 

If you do not feel 100% comfortable or confident to deal with beak trimming or overgrown toenails then make an appointment with your vet, for them to do it for you. Do not get over ambitious and risk damaging the animal.

 

 

Shell Pyramiding Aka MBD / Metabolic Bone Disease

   This is a developed deformity of the tortoises shell, or body shape, or texture. It is caused by incorrect husbandry and / or diet. However, parent animals with MBD will produce weaker offspring with a greater potential for developing the disease as well, and as such they should not be allowed to add to the gene pool.

   It is a conscious effort, by keepers, to allow and encourage captive tortoise eggs to be incubated in the UK, it is not something the animal physically does for themselves and ground temperatures are extremely unlikely to let it happen naturally. Nor are you surprised with unexpected live young (like a puppy or a kitten) so bad husbandry, in regards to breeding, cannot be claimed to be an accident.

   The tortoise needs a long term use of UV light in their environment. Get them into their outdoor pen, in the sunshine, and provide a UV light source in their indoor housing, so that they can bask beneath it for several hours a day. They need a combined UV light spectrum of UVB to convert the calcium carbonate and Vitamin D3 for healthy bone growth and UVA to encourage activity and other natural behaviour.

 

   Nutrobal (other similar products are available), also referred to as ‘Calcium Supplement’ is a commonly used vitamin and mineral supplement, applied to the tortoises food in powder form.

   This powder contains calcium to help prevent MBD, however, you need to use it in conjunction with the tortoises having regular and frequent access to UVB light spectrum, either from hours in natural sunshine or hours beneath UVB light emitting bulbs indoors, when the weather is unsuitable for them to be outside. If you do not provide this UVB lighting, in whichever form, then the calcium supplement is providing no benefit, because it is not being converted into anything useful, it will just pass through their gut without being absorbed. It is then just wasting your money and endangering your tortoises health, despite your good intentions.

 

   Pyramiding is a common problem with captive tortoises, resulting in shell scute deformity, caused mainly by excess of protein and inadequate calcium and UVB in diet and environment. The Keratin Scute coverings on the shell grow faster than the bone beneath so they are forced to grow up into pyramiding shapes, which become more susceptible to external damage because they do not have the bone strength supporting it beneath.

  

Ticks

   Like any animal that spends time in a grass environment, tortoises can also pick up ticks. It has not happened many times to our animals, but if it does it is best to just leave the tick to do its natural thing and fall off. Rather than trying to remove it and causing more issues. Once the tick has fallen off clean the would and bathe the animal and ensure it has food to replenish the nutrients the tick took.

   If there are a lot of them you may need to take it to the vet to that the can remove them safely. If it is a regular occurrence, more than once a year, then look into altering their outdoor pen to prevent it from routinely happening.

 

Worms

   Tortoises are susceptible to getting worms because they eat their food off the ground, and in many cases a lot of that food will be fresh grass. This is where the larvae or eggs of worms can be found and accidentally ingested. You may notice your tortoise losing weight despite still eating, however, the first real indication that they are infected will be when you see either worms or eggs in the tortoises poo. You may find that they have more diarrhoea

   Different worms need different treatments so, if you do see worms in the tortoises poo, then collect it and take it with you when you go to the vets, so that they can make sure they are giving you the right type of treatment for the right type of worm. They will advise you on the procedure and if you would need to worm the rest of your animals, that have been on the same ground.

   Some people routinely treat their animals for worms, however, over time the treatment can become less effective. Fortunately we have only had two cases of worms in the many years and many many tortoises that have been in our care. In our case we operate a treat as necessary policy. If there is a need for them to be treated for an infection, then there is no hesitation but we do not believe in dosing them with medication that they do not need. They are routinely monitored for any signs of ill health.

   Each year, around November, all of our tortoises are treated to plenty of Pumpkin, which is said to be a natural dewormer. Some people argue the accuracy of this but we have not had any cases since we have been giving it to them, and they like, and enjoy their treat so its a win win for everyone. After Halloween there are often a lot of unwanted pumpkins around, either from shops selling them off because they have over ordered and not sold them, or the neighbours have been carving them into lanterns and want rid of them.

IF you are going to feed the flesh of a carved pumpkin, make sure that there is no residual candle wax still in there before you do.

 

• Make sure you clean water bowls regularly, especially the ones outside.
• Have more than one area outside where your tortoise can go, or section your pen so that you can rest one area, rather than graze it right down.
• Avoid leaving uneaten food out overnight
• Make sure you clean the pen regularly of faeces
• Treatment is given orally in a measured dose. It is best if you can open their jaw and pop it straight in there mouth but if they are not feeling cooperative you may need to put it on food so it can take a while. But you need to be sure they have taken it all down or they wont get any better.

 

Depression/ Lethargy

   Lethargy it is often a sign that there is something wrong with their environment- they may not be warm enough or have enough UV light or may be dehydrated or lack of grazing. could also be because they are too warm and can’t be bothered to move.

   UV lighting is important in a tortoises captive environment. Whenever possible it is best to get the tortoise out into natural sunlight, an hour in the sun is worth 8 hours under indoor lighting.

   UV lighting comes in a spectrum of A,B and C. tortoises do not need UVC but UVB is very important because it is this that converts their powder supplements to keep their bones healthy.

   UVA is also very important because it helps to naturally stimulate the tortoise, encouraging it to move, eat, and other natural behaviours. If you are trying to keep your tortoise up over winter, when it wants to hibernate or Brumate then you need to make sure they are getting high levels of UVA. keep their bulbs on longer than just daylight hours so that they think it is a long sunny summer day.

   Tortoises that are kept under a UV lamp for prolonged periods will develop a darker colouring of shell. This is especially noticeable with Sulcata shell colours, - conker coloured from time under lights. Whereas, those that spend a lot of time outside in natural sunshine will start to go a paler colour, more dark beige tones. Both are perfectly healthy but it is like comparing humans spending hours directly on a sunbed or just wandering around in the sunshine, they will both tan but to varying intensities

 

 Underfeeding

   Especially on the run up to hibernation they will naturally start to eat less. If they are off their appetite and it is only September time, then you will need to give them warm baths and make sure they are getting warm enough under heat lamps to get their bodies functioning, this is a little too early for them to be getting ready for hibernation. Get them eating as many natural weeds as you can such as dandelions, plantains Ribwort etc. Also make sure they spend plenty of time under their UV lamp to stimulate them to eat. If it is nice they can go outside to forage in the sunshine but if they are wanting to just snuggle down and sleep then you will need to intervene and get them stimulated using artificial heating and light.

   They will need to fast for two weeks before you let them go into hibernation because sleeping on a full stomach is not a good idea and the food can begin to rot inside them, over time, and this is often a cause of death for them during hibernation.

   When they cone out of hibernation is another worrying time for them. They have been starving themselves for months and they need artificial stimulation to waken them back up and get their body systems up and running once more. So again, give then regular warm baths and make sure they are under heat and UV lamps. Offer them their favourite treats to stimulate them and again try giving them as much natural graze as you can, to give them a heathy start to the year.

   The correct type of nourishment is important for your tortoise ‘human foods’ like lettuce and cabbage and strawberries are not good for them on a regular basis. It can lead to health problems in the long term, it is nice for them to have as a treat but you want too be feeding them natural as much as possible.

   Don’t forget if you are giving them supplement powders then they need to spend time in sunshine or under UV lights in order to process it. If the tortoise does not do this then you are wasting your time giving them, which will lead to a tortoise that is not at maximum health.

  

Overfeeding And Over Watering

   This can be as bad as underfeeding. Make your animal work for their food, don’t just put it in a neat pile in front of them- scatter it around the pen so that your tortoise has to exercise to find it.

   An obese tortoise struggles to move, as their muscles are not strong enough to carry it, lack of movement will not improve the situation. It has to make an effort, the stimulation of searching for food by sight and scent will also enrich the tortoises life.

   Overfeeding of the wrong types of food can also cause deformed shell growth, which can impact blood flow, breathing and can cause painful movement. Imagine wandering around in a pair of ill fitting shoes, that must be what it would feel like to be wearing an ill fitting shell.

   Give the tortoise several small feeds, per day, so that you can monitor how much they have eaten and not leave uneaten food around to attract disease.

 

   Some tortoises can suffer with over watering, they see water and think they might not find any again and drink until they can get no more inside them and they will do this time and time again. They will begin to look extra chubby and bloated in their arms, legs and neck cavity. It can cause movement issues as the extra water gives them a lot of unnecessary weight to carry around.

   Water is important for all animals, including tortoises but if they take in too much water in one go then they can cause kidney problems.

   Also investigate if they have an abundance of salt in their diet. Pellet foods can contain salt which encourages the animal to drink, so that it soaks the dry pellets and they swell up and release their nutrients as they are digested. Too many pellets in their diet can mean a large salt intake..

   This is one of the reasons that we rarely feed our tortoises dried pellets. They get dried Readigrass which is chopped up fine grass rather than pellets.

 

   If your tortoise is spending hours and hours at the water bowl consider giving them a smaller bowl, so they take in less in one go, or move it around their pen so they at least have to search for it giving them enrichment and distracting them, so they spend less time drinking. Don’t remove their water source altogether though, and make sure they have enough access to water on a hot day.

   If it is becoming a real problem then you need to see the vet, as there could be a medical cause and treatment available.

 

Improper Diet

   There will be times of year when natural weeds are in shorter supply and you have to rely on supermarket foods. It is unavoidable but go more for things like the salad bags (without spinach) rather than a cauliflower. Never give them iceberg lettuce, it contains a toxin that build up in their system.

   Tomatoes, cucumber or banana are good for treats and getting the nutrition powder to stick to it so that you know they are actually getting it rather than sprinkling it on food where it can just seep through and you are left with a pile of it in a empty dish.

   Treats are fine for an occasional indulgence but that means giving them one or two strawberries every so often and not a whole punnet every day.

   We like a piece of chocolate cake, or something, but it would not be good for us to eat a whole cake everyday. You just need to apply a bit of common sense, variety in small amounts is OK just don’t go overboard.

   If you have the space get some tortoise friendly seeds and scatter them in their pen and leave them to grow. It is great enrichment for them to be able to pick their own food.

   A varied diet also gives you greater scope at getting them to eat if they are being picky due to illness.

 

Poor Environment

• Keep their house clean
• Remove uneaten food, poo pick regularly. it is not possible to pick every piece up the moment it has been produced but don’t let it fester .
• Make sure that the heat and UVB bulbs are at the correct height for the animals size, too close and you risk burning or injuring the tortoise and too far away they will not feel the benefit and you are wasting money and energy.
• Change water regularly, tortoises like to go to the toilet in their water, so it should be made fresh as often as required..
• Make sure there is nothing in their immediate environment that can cause then injury repair any problems as soon as possible or keep the tortoise out of that area until fixed.
• Make sure there is enough space for all of them, like people they do not always like to be in a crowd. They may want some space to themselves, so make sure there is enough areas they can get away from each other.
• Make sure there is hot and cold spots in the pen. Being able to cool down is just as important as being able to get warm, for them.
• Keep any eye on the humidity levels. different species need different amounts of humidity.
• Use size appropriate products and change them as your tortoise grows.

 

Stress

   An enclosure too small for them or overcrowding can cause stress and put them off their food..

likewise human noise levels can become stressful, they have quite good hearing and can feel vibrations through the floor.

   Don’t over handle a tortoise, it is not natural for them to suddenly be picked up and not be able to get away. they wont understand you just want to cuddle them, not hurt them.

   Keep other pets out of their environment, especially if unsupervised. Even the best behaved dog can get overexcited.

 

Illness And Injuries

   Get to know our tortoises habits and personality, so that you can tell when their is something wrong. Your tortoises body language is is going to be what gives you the first clues that it is ill. They cant tell you where it hurts, so you need to be observant of them. Early treatment at a vet gives the tortoise the best chance of a long life with you.

 

Damage To Their Shell

   This is particularly serious as it is infection which will most likely kill the animal not necessarily the actual injury. Make sure that their pens are secure from any outside dangers. You can’t anticipate all accidents but you can eliminate likely problems.

 

Drowning

   Keep tortoises, especially the small breeds away from deep water such as ponds. Don’t leave it in a bath of water unsupervised and don’t fill the water level above its head. They need to be able to lift their head higher than the water line in order to be able to breathe..

 

Predation

   Mice and especially rats, are a great danger of killing tortoises or severely injuring them. In winter they are a bigger threat too because it is warm in the tortoise house and food is available for them as well, so they are more likely to visit. If you do get a rodent infestation, move the tortoise to a safe location and put traps out where the mouse or rat has been. Also put traps near the access hole the rodent is using to get it. Once you have caught and eliminated it you can repair the hole. If you do it before you have caught the rat, it is just going to munch its way back in and you will have wasted your time.

   Think very carefully before you put poison down. Make sure it is well away from the tortoises. Be

aware that poison is quite slow acting and the rodent can still be mobile after eating it, so when the rat or mouse poos, their pellets will contain traces of this poison. If your tortoise gets access to these pellets and accidentally eats some, then they too can be affected by the poison. Make sure you are very vigilant about cleaning up the rodent droppings.

 

   You can use natural sprays and certain flowers to deter mice and rats from around your tortoise house.

 

   Foxes and cats can take tortoises ,usually they are not strong enough to prize open a tortoise, if it has pulled right in but they can carry them off to someone else’s garden, loosing them in the process when they get fed up. Teeth biting into flesh and shell will cause damage and potential infection.

 

   Family pets such as dogs, again they often just want to play, thinking they are a ball with legs, but they can cause a lot of damage to a tortoise. They would be able to pierce the shell with a strong bite or cause damage to legs and head with their sharp canines. Do not leave them unsupervised with your tortoise.

 

Household Accidents

   Lawnmowers, strimmers, cars, bonfires etc

   Make sure the tortoise has a safe space, away from danger and that you have secured it elsewhere if you are going to cut their outdoor pen area. A couple of seconds to check on your pets whereabouts and move it, if necessary, can save hours of trauma and expense, if the tortoise is injured as a result of your negligence.

   Young children should not be left unsupervised with a tortoise they can be curious and unintentionally cause harm and stress, or move them to places that they shouldn’t.